First of all, apologies! It seems my last blog about our journey through the Harecastle Tunnel has mysteriously disappeared into the depths of the internet, so I’ll do my best to catch everyone up.
We successfully made it through the Harecastle Tunnel in 39 minutes, and honestly, it was nowhere near as bad as I had imagined. The Canal & River Trust staff were on hand to help, carry out a brief safety check, and make sure our tunnel lights and horn were working before we headed in.
Thankfully, there were no bumps or scrapes to report!
The tunnel itself was certainly an eerie experience. At 1.6 miles (2.6 km) long, it is the second-longest canal tunnel on the network. The current tunnel was opened in 1827 and designed by the famous engineer Thomas Telford after the original tunnel, built by James Brindley in 1777, became too unstable and narrow for increasing canal traffic. Today, boaters can still see the blocked entrances to Brindley’s original tunnel alongside Telford’s impressive engineering achievement.
After emerging into daylight, we continued down the Trent & Mersey Canal and found a mooring at Westport Lake. What a lovely spot—although there seemed to be almost as many Canada geese as there were people, and the amount of goose poop was something else entirely!
On Saturday 30th May, we wandered down the towpath past the old potteries to the Etruria Canal Festival. It may be a relatively small festival, but it packed in historic boats, live music, food, beer, and plenty of canal enthusiasts. We also got the chance to catch up with our friend Aaron aboard fuel boat Halsall.
The following day, we visited Middleport Pottery, which we had passed a few times from the towpath. Middleport Pottery was established in 1888 by Burgess & Leigh and remains one of the few working Victorian potteries left in the UK. It is still producing world-famous Burleigh pottery today, using many traditional manufacturing techniques that have largely disappeared elsewhere.
On Tuesday 2nd June, we left the Trent & Mersey and headed onto new waters—the Caldon Canal.
The first section of the canal didn’t give us the best first impression, and several boaters advised us not to moor until after Bridge 18. They were absolutely right. Beyond Bridge 18 the scenery changed dramatically, opening into beautiful countryside once again.
After a couple of restful nights, we climbed the seven locks leading to the Leek Branch. This section was lined with permanently moored boats and proved surprisingly shallow in places. We had hoped to reach the very end of the branch but were stopped about half a mile short by a sign advising boats over 45 feet to wind there.
So wind we did!
After turning around, we headed back through Leek Tunnel and moored just beyond it. We also managed to get a grocery shop done—over the hills and far away, it seemed!
A few days later, we cruised back down the Leek Branch and made the sharp turn onto the Froghall Branch. Once again, the canal was extremely shallow, and we found ourselves grounded several times before eventually reaching Consall.
At Consall, the canal briefly joins the River Churnet—our first time cruising on a river. Fortunately, it was a very gentle introduction.
We moored opposite the Churnet Valley Railway, one of Britain’s best-preserved heritage railways. The line originally opened in 1849 and now operates beautifully restored steam and diesel trains through the scenic Staffordshire countryside. Watching the steam trains pass from the boat was a real treat.
An added bonus was having a cosy pub just a short walk away.
The next day, we walked to the end of the canal at Froghall Basin. To reach the basin by boat requires passing through Froghall Tunnel, one of the lowest tunnels on the canal network. Only a limited number of narrowboats can fit through, and unfortunately AndAway isn’t one of them.
The walk, however, was well worth it.
Froghall Basin was once a busy industrial wharf where limestone, coal, and ironstone were transferred between boats and local industries. Today it is a peaceful destination surrounded by woodland and walking trails. We enjoyed a visit to the lovely tea room, where I purchased a picture of the MadHatter’s Tea Party by a local artist.
Why the MadHatter?
Because the house I grew up in, in East Sussex, was called “Madhatters,” so it seemed fitting.
Before leaving Consall, we had one final novelty—travelling underneath the platform of Consall Station itself. Not many railway stations can claim that boats pass directly beneath them!
We then wound the boat and headed back up the Froghall Branch to the main canal, eventually mooring at the foot of Lock 4, a wonderfully peaceful spot.
On Monday 15th June, we cruised back to Etruria as it is conveniently close to Stoke-on-Trent railway station. From there, I headed down to Devon to spend a few days with Mum, leaving Chris behind with a substantial “honey-do” list for the boat.
Once reunited, we continued south along the Trent & Mersey Canal, working through five locks before finding a lovely mooring below Bridge 104.
On arrival, we were greeted by several cows standing in the canal—and one rather impressive bull!
Nearby is the Wedgwood Factory and V&A Wedgwood Collection, which we visited during our stay. We found it fascinating and learned a great deal about Josiah Wedgwood.
Josiah Wedgwood was not only one of Britain’s greatest potters and industrial innovators but also a passionate campaigner against slavery. In 1787, he produced the famous medallion featuring an enslaved man with the words “Am I Not a Man and a Brother?” The image became one of the most powerful symbols of the abolition movement and helped raise awareness of the campaign to end the transatlantic slave trade.
The weather has turned exceptionally hot recently, and we are now spending much of our time finding inventive ways to cool the boat down. One solution involves a portable shower, a bucket of canal water, and spraying the roof to reduce the temperature.
As I type this, it’s currently 32°C (90°F), which is just a little warm inside what is essentially a floating steel tube!
But in other news…
We may have an announcement about a new crew member very soon.
Stay tuned!
As always you can also catch up on our YouTube channel- available July 1st.
Dont forget the Merch Store !
If you would like to support us , you can now buy us a gallon of diesel or a glass of wine !!!
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